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One thing that many of these commentators agreed upon is that you can’t get a decent meal in the city, that its restaurants simply exist to fleece tourists, passing off overpriced, sub-standard fare to an undemanding clientele. In fact, the only positive thing that was ever said about Venetian restaurant food was that it was nowhere near as bad as the muck doled out in the city’s hotels. Halfway through lunch at Antiche Carampane I decide that this bad reputation is out of date. This homely restaurant, run by Francesco and his mother Piera, oozes hospitality. I’m here with Marco, a fishmonger from the Rialto, one of Europe’s most magnificent food markets. Marco comes here every day for lunch. As he supplies Francesco’s fish, not only can he vouch for its impeccable provenance but he also doesn’t have to pick up the bill. Today, says Marco, the moèche – tiny soft-shell crabs the size of £2 coins, harvested from Venice’s lagoon during spring and autumn – are particularly good. Francesco fries these in batter to serve with strips of fried aubergine, green chilli and samphire. The result is feather-light and astonishingly good.
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